troquer

Photo taken in March 2010. The window at Shakespeare and Company bookshop... and one of the most exciting days of my life. I brought my book and Chief Grape brought his wine, which was a hit! I learned a little about public speaking—in preparing for the talk—and even more during the talk!

***

Today, read a story by French Word-A-Day reader Johanna DeMay

Following the Ange, or Angel story—about the passing of one of Paris's most unforgettable characters, I received several letters by readers who shared their experiences in the beloved Shakespeare and Company bookshop. Today, read Johanna DeMay's story. Feel free to share your own stories, here in the comments box.

troquer (troh-kay)

    : to barter; to exchange, swap

Audio File: Listen to Jean-Marc read the following sentence: Download MP3 or Wave file

Quand il n'avait plus d'argent pour acheter des livres, il troquait "ses moins favoris" pour obtenir un nouveau roman. When he had no more money to buy books, he bartered his "least favorite" in order to obtain a new novel.


. 

The Genius of Shakespeare and Company
by Johanna DeMay
. 

After hours of wandering around St. Germain-des-Prés on a chilly April morning, I finally caught my first glimpse of the famous bookstore.  None of the photos I had seen could convey the cattywhumpus quality of the place.  It looked like an illustration from a childrenʼs book.  It drew me in with the relentless tug of an outgoing tide.

The place was packed with people and books, and the people were as fascinating as the books.  A young man arrived to take over behind the desk, relieving the young woman who was off to lunch. The people in line waited while the two exchanged a few words in Franglish.  Then she breezed past me and the young man turned to his customers.

First in line was a short, barrel-chested old man in a well-worn motorcycle jacket. He had a mane of unruly salt-and-pepper hair, a jutting chin and brooding black eyes.  He plunked down a stack of books and 25 Euros.  The bookseller shook his head sadly.

“You know that these books will add up to more than 25 Euros, nʼest-ce pas?” the young man said.

“Ecoute, 25 Euros is all I have.”

They looked at each other for a moment.  

“OK, which ones can you live without?”

“NONE of them.”

“OK, which ones can you NOT live without?”

“Your family has always been très gentille with me.  Youʼre not going to change that now, are you?”

“Pas du tout.  So help me to choose.”  

The young man picked up the first book, eyebrows raised in question. The customer shook his head firmly and grabbed it. Another book, same result.  Third book.  The customer nodded and the bookseller set it aside.  When he had set aside 2 books he took the rest from the old manʼs hands, wrapped them up and handed over the package.  He picked up the 25 Euros from the counter and the two shook hands.  

I watched as the old man hurried out of the shop with his treasures.  When I looked back, business as usual had resumed, and all the people in line were smiling.

Le Coin Commentaires
Please help me to thank Johanna for her lovely story! Click here to leave a message in the comments box. 

 

Johanna is a studio potter in New Mexico and a lifelong lover of language.  She is also an avid cyclist and recently toured Provence on two wheels. Check out Johanna's pottery site, here: http://web.mac.com/timestwo/DeMayPottery/Welcome.html

 And Talk About A Wonderful Book Cover!...

Readers have recommended this book by Jeremy Mercer: Time Was Soft There: A Paris Sojourn at Shakespeare and Co.

Wandering through Paris's Left Bank one day, poor and unemployed, Canadian reporter Jeremy Mercer ducked into a little bookstore called Shakespeare & Co. Mercer bought a book, and the staff invited him up for tea. Within weeks, he was living above the store, working for the proprietor, George Whitman, patron saint of the city's down-and-out writers, and immersing himself in the love affairs and low-down watering holes of the shop's makeshift staff. Time Was Soft There is the story of a journey down a literary rabbit hole in the shadow of Notre Dame, to a place where a hidden bohemia still thrives. 

 Click here to buy a copy of Time Was Soft There.

 

French Vocabulary

n'est-ce pas? = isn't that right?

écoute (écouter: imperative form écoute! (toi)) = listen

très gentille = very kind, very nice

pas du tout = not at all

 

 

Johanna DeMay, who wrote today's story, is seen here. She and her husband, Will, pictured, visited me a few years ago.

 Riding past our vineyard, Will signals "au revoir".

 

Buy "Blossoming" at your local bookstore?
If you have bought a copy of Blossoming in Provence from a local bookseller, please leave me a message here in the comments box. It will be so helpful to know about your experience (was it easy to order? How long did it take to get the book?)

Here's a note from Jan:

We have a very charming little bookstore here in Monument called Covered Treasures that I just love. So, taking your advice from one of your emails advising of the availability of Blossoming in Provence, I printed off the information from Amazon and took it to my bookstore for two reasons. First, I prefer to support local businesses when I can. Second, I suggested that the owner might want to take a look at it when the copy I ordered arrives. Her comment when I showed her the book info was "What a beautiful cover!". I told her a little of your history to pique her interest. Who knows what might happen! At the very least, I'll get my book.  Jan in Monument, Colorado

Comments

[meredith]

I am very bad at wheeling and dealing!

[Alyssa Ross Eppich]

I was a little shocked to see the English sign in Shakespeare's window until I saw the explanation below it! Merveilleux! I love surprises, and Johanna's article as the follow up was just so. Happy New Year to you, Kristin, indeed to all who read your article!

[mary]

Hi Kristin, I just clicked the link to your Amazon page and it is not working...just thought I would let you know. I love today's post--just ordered your new book. Hope that all is well. Mary

[Mariangie]

This was su a great post and I love hearing about other people's experiences at Shakespeare & Co. I cannot wait to go back to Paris and take a visit there. By the way, I have not read the new book but ordered from Amazon today. Can't wait to read it.

[Annette Heath]

If you only knew how many times I have been hunched over my laptop w/my ear as close to Jean-Marc's voice as I could possibly get. (The sound is poor on my computer.)I hit "replay" over and over and then practice the words over and over, sealing my love of the French language again and again. I think I'd take ten years off my life just to be fluent in French. Merci Jean-Marc. You speak so beautifully and slow enough for those of us who are students of these lovely words.

[Suzanne, Monroe Twp., NJ]

The art of negotiation is powerful. Whether we realize it or not we do it every day ... with others and with ourselves. Johanna's story demonstrates how a skillful negotiation or barter can result in agreement rather than confrontation. Your word for today helped confirm my translation of the name of a favorite Parisian restaurant on l'Exposition in the 7th. Le P'tit Troquet ... the littler barter I assume. The walls of the tiny front dining room are hung with brocante treasures.

[Mim]

What a nice memory. Tomorrow, we'll walk over to Shakespeare & Co. We'll pay our respects and give them a bag of books. I read only half of the new book, Kristen, left it home to complete when I return, rather than bringing it to Paris with us. My French is returning to my brain & French classes begin next Tuesday. Peut etre le prochaine fois que j'ecrirai a comment it'll be all in French. Thank you so much for keeping me connected to what I love.

[Karen Whitcome (Towson, MD. USA)]

Thank you, Johanna. Through that exchange we received a very sweet glimpse into life as it plays out in that unique shop. It sounds similar to the bartering and banter that must have taken place between Sylvia Beach and Hemingway (among others) in the original store.

Kristin, I was there in October last year and tried to figure out where in the world you could squeeze in to speak to a crowd as you did in 2010. Was it in an area that is off limits to the public?

[Millie]

Johanna DeMay's write-up is beautiful, and she is an amazing potière. Like you, Kristin, she gave me the feeling that I was also standing in line, derrière le monsieur au blouson usagé.
Kristin, you made a typo mistake when you translated JM's words - "we" au lieu de "WHEN" dans la phrase "We he had no more money... "
For Suzanne in NJ, I think le P'tit Troquet c'est le petit bistro ou bien petit bar.
Bonne journée, Kristin!

[JULES GREER - PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO]

HI JOHANNA -

What a lucky day that was when you and Kristi crossed paths here on FWAD....you and Will have added such a delightful spark to Kristi and Jean-Marc's life. I remember when you made your bike trip to their vineyard, I was so impressed...made me want to get out of my warm bed and follow in your example. Also, Johanna, I am a big fan of your art...I am always over checking out your latest creations. Kristi needs to buy one of your pieces for her table under the tree at ROUGE-BLEU.

XOXO

JULES

[Tish]

I loved today's story. I was in attendance at Shakespeare & Co for your talk March 2010 and it was great! I sat where I could see Notre Dame lit up just out the window behind you as you shared your experiences. I have (sadly) finished Blossoming in Provence and am eagerly awaiting your next book! I have also pulled your other books for a re-read this winter.

[Alexandre et Anka]

Great story!
In some parts of the world, Troquer is considered a form of politesse.
If you just plunk your money and pay the requested price they consider you too distant to talk to them.
I did this many a time and on larger items, at the conclusion of the sale, we ended up invited for coffee and treats with the family of the store owner.
There is a limit you can go and it is always a handshake at the end and an invitation to come back.
And you can do this casually, for the smallest item. Try it!
We have been many times to the Shakespeare and Co. First time it was a little shocking to see it.
I see George passed away on December 14! Our condolences!
We hope that there is somebody to carry on the wonderful shop.

[JULES GREER - PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO]

I WAS JUST OVER AT YOUR SITE JOHANNA - I FELL IN LOVE WITH 'THE RED JAR' -

I CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO CONTACT YOU OR THE PRICE -

KRISTI - I WOULD LOVE THIS FOR 'MOTHER'S DAY.'

ALSO KRISTI - THE THREE CONTAINERS WOULD LOOK GREAT ON YOUR KITCHEN COUNTER FILLED WITH HERBS OF PROVENCE, DRIED BASEL (SP?) AND LAVENDER FROM YOUR GARDEN....

ONCE AGAIN I AM AMAZED AT THE INTERESTING AND BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE THAT COME INTO OUR LIVES THROUGH KRISTI'S BLOG. I AM SO THANKFUL FOR ALL OF YOU.

XOXO

JULES

P.S. BUY MORE BOOKS - TIME TO STOCK UP FOR ALL OF THOSE VALENTINE PRESENTS. XOXO - JUST DOING MY JOB AS MARKETING DIRECTOR FOR MY ANGEL KRISTI....XOXO

[GwenEllyn, the Brain Geek]

What a charming moment to be watching! Thank you for sharing this. it will stay with me.

[gary]

Thank you Johanna for a nice story. When I was a student in Paris in the summer of 1967, I of course made a pilgrimage to Shakespeare & Co. On that pilgrimage I discovered the delightful park across the street in front of Saint Julien le Pauvre. The park, with its view across the Seine to Notre Dame, is a wonderful place to begin reading a book one has purchased (or bartered) at Shakespeare & Co. I often went to that park, a surprisingly calm spot in the middle of Paris, to write essays for my classes. Many years later I had the pleasure of taking my 10-year old daughter, an avid reader, for her first visit to Shakespeare & Co. to buy a book and get the coveted "Kilometre Zero" stamp inside its cover. A unique and magical place.

[arby]

A lovely story. Nothing inspires me like a visit to a bookshop.

I've purchased the book via Amazon and its due to arrive around the 10th. Looking forward to it. I do have all of them and still enjoy picking up one or the other.

[Dawne Polis]

A simply wonderful story by Johanna, and a great note from Jan. I'll have to try that at my bookstore, too. A friend sent me this link last week, as he knows I loved Shakespeare &Co.
http://www.forbes.com/sites/trevorbutterworth/2011/12/28/as-the-age-of-the-physical-book-retreats-the-cult-of-the-physical-book-advances/
Halfway done, Kristin! Makes such cozy bedtime reading!
xx

[Peggy]

I wish I had followed the advice to order my book from my local bookstore, but I couldn't wait. I ordered from Amazon.com in spite of the shipping costs to Canada. At that time Amazon.ca did not list it. Now they do list "Blossoming" with a 1 to 2 month(!)wait for delivery. Your local bookstore is the way to go, unless, like me, you can't wait for more of Kristin's lovely work. It's a lovely read, Kristin. I read it in one sitting, and am about to start again.
PS Its overcast and snowy here in Prince Edward County. Those lovely pictures of bicycles in the vinyards make me anxious for my next trip to france.

[Cynthia Lewis]

Annette, thank you for writing exactly the words which express my thoughts!

The speakers on my computer are fairly clear, but I still listen over and over trying to repeat Jean-Marc's accent and inflections. This from someone who truly loves the French language....Cynthia Salisbury MD

[Gwendolyn Shire]

Johanna Cherie,

Perfectly delightful! Wonderful, warming story! Who would have guessed that the kid who scraped the top off the butter slab to get a softer spread on her toast, long ago in Mexico, would have ended up so. . .well. . .utterly charmant!

[Jan in Monument, Colorado]

I got the call from my bookstore today that Blossoming had arrived and I went out of my way to pick it up the same day. Once I got it home, I just meant to browse through it for a minute or two then go on to the chores I had planned. I ended up reading about half the book! The way the book draws you in, the door on the front cover should be open! So much for the chores getting ready for company. Tant pis ;-) They'll get done somehow. I have my priorities.

[Frances]

I ordered two books, and I am anxiously awaiting their arrival! I ordered one for me and one for my friend who lives sort of the mirror oppsite of your life, Kristen. She is an American married to a French man, she is a writer, her husband works as a vineyard manager, they have 2 kids, but they live here in Napa. I told her all about your project to publish a book, and now I want her to have your book, too. I can't wait to read the book!

[Jack]

I ordered your book when it first came out, using the link you provided. It arrived in 3 days and it's delightful! I'm about half-way through reading it, and often bring it with me "dans le petit coin" to learn new vocabulary. I hope you don't wait so long again for your next opus!

[rick]

I ordered your book from Amazon. I got it in 2 days because I pay for their Prime service.

[Sandra Vann]

Lovely blog and so wish we could have heard your talk at Shakespeare and Co. last year Kristin. It is a step back in time...c'est sure. A true delight whenever one has la chance to be in Paris.
Bon weekend.
I still hope Jules will be available as a marketing genuis whenever I finally finish a book of my own to publish. Bravo Jules.

[Kristin Espinasse]

Annette and Cynthia, Jean-Marc will be so happy to know about your listening to his recordings. We do them each time, here at my computer. At around 10 am, each MWF, I yell down the hall Cheri, tu peux maider avec le sound file. He finished whatever he is working on, then appears beside my desk, clearing his throat and listening to my instructions: You need to say the whole word -- dont forget le (or la)... Hup! You missed that one... Sometimes I can hear a glookiness (rhymes with cookie-ness?) in his voice... and I know he has just finished snacking on something! (I usually let it go--and dont make him re-record). I wouldnt want to discourage him from returning!

Thank you for these messages. It is a true pleasure--and the best reward--to read each one of them. I enjoy Johannas story each time I read it--I hope youll come back to savor it, too.

[Kristin Espinasse]

P.S.: thank you very much to those of you who have mentioned buying my book for a friend or for yourself. I really appreciate your support!

[Gretel]

...."cattywhumpus".....what a wonderful word!

Thank you Johanna for capturing an endearing moment of time in Paris...love your pottery as well. I have just tried a term of potting and it is not as easy as it looks and there is certainly a wealth of learning involved...great fun! :-)

Happy New Year to all!

PS Book on it's way via the slow boat down south....due sometime in February!

[Tim Healy]

Kristin

I loved Blossoming in Provence. Coquille particularly blew me away, perhaps because I am of such an age.

Tim Healy

[Susan Carter]

Loved todays story by Johanna, it really brought a smile to my face. Have your book, Kristen, but haven't had a chance to start it yet as putting away Christmas still looms above me,

[Harvey Mudd]

A wonderful, sharply observed anecdote, not just about bookstores but about how the French relate to their customers. No one gets impatient in a French store as these little dances go on. Everything is very one to one.
There are very interesting stories about the famous bookstore and Sylvia Beach in "Americans in Paris: life and death under Nazi occupation" by Charles Glass. I would praise the genius of all Paris' bookstores, most individually owned, protected by the very sensible policies that have prevented Amazon.fr and une Barnes and Noble from decimating the publishers and the sellers. My secret Paris is network of bookstores, from the Sorbonne to the 9th. And I wonder, Kristin, how would you translate "cattywhumpus."

[Pat, Roanoke, Va]

Enjoyed your story, Johanna, and visited your pottery page. I too want that magnificent red jar! Beautiful creations.

[Kristin Espinasse]

Millie, thanks for the helpful edits. On my way to fix it now.

Gretel and Harvey, I, too, loved seeing Johannas word cattywhumpus. I wanted to make it the word of the day, in honor of Johannas reference to it in her story, but could not find the French equivalent. Heres what I found for the English meaning:

: in disarray or disorder

: 
positioned diagonally; cater-cornered
: askew, awry

Various ways of spelling the word include catawampus, cattywampus and kittywampus

[Kristin Espinasse]

Karen, I spoke in a cozy room on the second floor (I believe...). I think something like 40 people can squeeze in there. Also, the talks are played over the radio, throughout the store. (The wine-tasting was held after the talk, on the first floor, or rez-de-chausée).

In summer, Shakespeare and Company holds talks outside. That must be a lot of fun!

[JULES GREER - PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO]

HAPPY SATURDAY EVERYONE!!!

I JUST RETURNED FROM THE BOARDWALK - MALECON - ON THE MARINA WHERE I LIVE HERE IN PUERTO VALLARTA. I HAVE FOUND THIS IS A GREAT TIME TO TAKE PHOTO'S OF THE SUNRISE OVER THE YACHTS AND ALSO TO CORNER ALL OF THE TOURISTS THAT ARE GOING FISHING ON THE CHARTERS AT 6:30 A.M. IN THE MORNING.

WHILE THEY ARE WAITING FOR THEIR BOAT 'CAPTAINS' TO FIND THEM UNDER THE LIGHTHOUSE I SHOW THEM A FEW GREAT PHOTO'S OF SUNRISES HERE AT THE MARINA ON MY NEW COMPUTER - THEN I MOVE ON TO MY 'SPIEL' ABOUT WHY THEY SHOULD BUY 'BLOSSOMING IN PROVENCE' AND SIGN UP FOR FRENCH-WORD-A-DAY!!!

NOW IT'S 8:15 A.M. AND I AM READY TO FEED ALL OF THEIR EMAILS I HAVE SQUEEZED OUT OF THEM INTO MY COMPUTER SO I CAN REMIND THEM TO SEND THEIR BEST PHOTO'S OF TODAYS FISH CATCH AND ALSO REMIND THEM TO BUY KRISTI'S BOOK !!!

THIS IS THE LIFE OF A MOTHER......

XOXO

JULES

P.S. THE MESSAGES FROM EVERYONE ABOVE TELL ME THAT WE ALL NEED TO GO TO OUR LOCAL BOOKSTORE AND ORDER MORE BOOKS!

[Jan in Monument, Colorado]

Oops! When I read Tim's comment about especially liking Coquille, I went to the table of contents for find it. There's a minor error that you might want to fix before the tremendous demand stirred up by Jules requires a second printing. TOC says Coquille begins on page 123, but it's actually on page 117. Jules, now that I've been to Puerto Vallarta, I have an accurate mental image of your morning stroll around the Marina and can easily picture you accosting all the tourists! Love it!

[Kristin Espinasse]

Jan, thanks for catching that one. Ive put your note into my 2nd edition folder :-)

[Eileen deCamp]

Hello,
I enjoyed your post today Johanna and the accompanying photos!

Kristin--It sounds like your mom is working her derriére off peddling your book!

[Lynn at Southern Fried French]

Love the post, great bookstore. Kristin, just got to the states and my mom and I are pouring over the new book. cover looks fantastic, and the blue border is just right. we liked the fact that the paper inside is a creamy beige, it makes the photos look almost sepia, a great effect. The shadow boxes with vocab. are nice too. Copies arrived promptly. Now the fun part---reading it!

[Linda Hugues at Paintbrush Travels]

Lovely story. I've heard a lot about Shakespeare and Company, but I've never managed to visit. Now I'm determined, if only to see the cadywhampus design.

[Sandy]

What a sweet story, Johanna. Thank you for sharing it.

[Patricia M. Telles]

What a sweet exchange and how well it was described. I carry a picture of the clerk and the old/regular customer in their exchange. Such a short glimpse and I felt like a person in line watching this with a smile. Bravo, Ms. DeMay.

[Mary de Lopez]

Johanna, thank you for sending the link to this wonderful site and sharing your experience of such kindness. I'll look forward to future postings of notable happenings during your visits to France!

[Bob Head]

Kristin--I want to buy your book but I live in Australia and my experience with shipping by Amazon here is not good.
Is there another way? I will post Euros to you if you can send it (after receiving my money)
Thanks Bob
[email protected]

[Jo Ellen Brainin-Rodriguez]

I bought the book through Amazon. No problem. It arrived last week and I read it in one sitting. It felt like a walk through your home and life...thanks for letting us in!
Love et bisous,
Jo Ellen

[Jennifer in OR]

I watched "Midnight in Paris" a few nights ago (fantastic movie, by the way!), and there is a brief scene in which Shakespeare & Co. is shown, and I immediately thought of you!

[s white]

I saw "Midnight in Paris" as well.in fact, the first time I saw it was on the plane coming back from Paris last year.Love,love,love it.When they showed Shakespeare&Co I shrieked "I've been there!"The opening montage makes me miss Paris so much.It is now part of my dvd collection and I have watched it about quatre fois.Everytime my husband and I are in Paris we go to this bookstore.I,too,ordered "Blossoming in Provence" from amazon(Canada) and I can't wait for it to arrive.

[Kathy outside Sacramento, in the 60's again today--amazing!]

1. Johanna--beautiful story, and equally beautiful pottery. I wish it were for sale on your site. A piece of it would make a wonderful gift for my sister-in-law. I Googled you trying to find a place to buy your work, but didn't find one. C'est vraiment dommage!
2. We just watched "Midnight in Paris" this week, and while the scenes of Paris were indeed beautiful, the dialogue in the contemporary scenes were WAY too Woody Allen for either of us to enjoy. I don't think I'll watch any more of his films.
3. Kristin--Just finished "BIP" and enjoyed every minute of it. I'm proud of you for following your dreams, working so hard, and making this happen for yourself. And happy for all of us who enjoy your work. (Also gave a copy as a Christmas gift.)

[แปลเอกสาร]

Having read this I thought it was rather informative. I appreciate you spending some time and energy to put this article together. I once again find myself personally spending way too much time both reading and posting comments. But so what, it was still worthwhile!